Pruning tomatoes and cucumbers - the secret to a gardener's success
Pruning is one of the most important, but often underestimated, tasks of a gardener. How and when we remove excess shoots or leaves determines not only the quantity of the harvest, but also its quality. Proper pruning helps plants use energy more efficiently to ripen fruits, reduces the risk of diseases and improves air circulation in the greenhouse, which is especially important for densely growing tomatoes and cucumbers.
It is important to know that the pruning rules for these two plants are different; what is suitable for tomatoes may not be suitable for cucumbers, so it is worth delving into the needs of each plant.
Basic pruning rules
Air circulation
Densely packed plants create a humid, poorly ventilated environment, perfect conditions for fungal diseases and pests. By pruning excess leaves and shoots, we open the plant to light and air. This is especially true for tomatoes, which are easily infected with powdery mildew or late blight when grown densely.
Energy distribution in fruits
A plant has a limited amount of resources, if we allow it to produce excessive side shoots or leaf mass, most of its energy will go not into fruit formation, but into the growth of "greenery". Pruning allows us to control this distribution, by removing unnecessary shoots, the plant directs all its energy to the harvest.
Disease prevention
Leaf contact with the soil, overly dense growth, and stagnant, humid air all create perfect conditions for the spread of diseases. Regular pruning removes aging, damaged, or diseased leaves and reduces the risk of infections.
Maintaining proper plant shape
Especially in a greenhouse, it is important to have a clear structure for the plant, whether it is a single-stemmed tomato or a vertically growing cucumber. Proper pruning helps the plant grow in a chosen shape, which is easier to maintain, tie up and support.
Tomatoes and cucumbers - two beloved but very different fruits
It is recommended to start pruning tomatoes when the plant reaches the 5-6 leaf stage and begins to produce the first axillary shoots, usually 3-4 weeks after planting. Pruning that is not started on time will require more effort later and may cause stress to the plant.
How to prune?
1. Removing axillary shoots on tomatoes
Axillary shoots grow between the main stem and the petiole. They look like little extra stems, but if you don't remove them, they will quickly grow and take energy away from the fruit. It's best to remove them when they are still small, about 3-5 cm long. This can be done by hand or with a clean knife.
Tall tomatoes are usually formed with a single stem, so all side (axillary) shoots are removed.
Dwarf varieties sometimes do not need strict pruning, some of them also produce fruit on side shoots, but excessive abundance of them still reduces the size of the fruit.
2. Top pruning
For tomatoes, it is recommended to cut the top of the stem at the beginning of August, when the days start to get shorter, leaving 2-3 leaves above the last inflorescence cluster. This helps the plant focus on ripening the fruits that have already formed.
For cucumbers, top pruning is done when the plant reaches the maximum desired height - usually at the top of the greenhouse or if it is necessary to limit its growth.
In the first 4-5 axillary spaces of the plant (low to the root), all shoots and flowers are removed so that the roots can strengthen first.
As growth continues, 1-2 fruits can be left in the lateral spaces, and the lateral shoots can be shortened, usually to a length of 2 leaves.
Common mistakes
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Too late topping tomatoes
If the top is removed in August - September, the plant may not have time to ripen the fruit, and some of the flowers will remain useless. -
Failure to remove axillary shoots in a timely manner
Axillary shoots grow quickly, can reach 15-20 cm in a week and turn into a second main stem. Removing them later stresses the plant and makes it harder for wounds to heal. -
Pruning in wet weather or with dirty tools
This increases the risk of infections. Always use clean, disinfected tools and prune in the morning, on a dry day.
Pruning cucumbers
Do all cucumbers need pruning?
It depends on the variety. Self-forming cucumber varieties produce a limited number of side shoots and usually do well without additional intervention. Meanwhile, varieties that require shaping, especially when grown in a greenhouse, produce a lot of side branches and flowers, which, if not controlled, can make the plant dense and reduce yield. Therefore, it is worth knowing what variety you are growing before pruning.
When to start pruning?
The first pruning of cucumbers should be done when the plant reaches the 4-5 true leaf stage. This means that it is already strong enough, and at that time the flowers or shoots that appear can be formed without damage.
How to prune?
At the beginning, it is recommended to remove all axillary shoots and flowers in the lower part of the plant, up to about the fifth leaf. This helps the plant to strengthen the root system and not waste energy on early fruits. Later, as the plant grows upwards, 1-2 fruits are left on the side shoots, and the shoots themselves are shortened to 1-2 leaves. This formation helps the plant to remain neat and productive.
Removal of the apex
When the cucumber reaches the ceiling of the greenhouse or the desired height, it is worth stopping the growth of the top. This allows you to stop excessive elongation of the stem and encourages the plant to distribute energy into the already formed fruits. The top is usually removed leaving 2-3 leaves above the last fruit cluster.
Common mistakes
One of the most common problems is planting cucumbers too densely. Even with active pruning, cucumbers growing too close together interfere with each other, causing poor air circulation and favorable conditions for diseases. Another mistake is not removing the lower shoots, which not only weaken the plant, but also block the light to the entire stem. This can lead to poor fruit formation and a longer ripening time.
